# Traveling to Ireland...what should we not miss?



## Betsy the Quilter (Oct 27, 2008)

Hey, going to Ireland later in the year....we're not necessarily interested in the typical tourist attractions.  What are the "road less travelled" things we might want to see?  Anyone got some suggestions?

Betsy


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## Ann in Arlington (Oct 27, 2008)

You could go see my family's ancestral home in The Neale, in County Mayo.   (it's a mostly caved in thatch cottage by now, if it's even still standing.  )


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## Leslie (Apr 7, 2008)

Betsy the Quilter said:


> Hey, going to Ireland later in the year....we're not necessarily interested in the typical tourist attractions. What are the "road less travelled" things we might want to see? Anyone got some suggestions?
> 
> Betsy


I loved driving down the the Dingle peninsula to the town of Dingle. It was beautiful. There are two roads: one is more "modern" (less twisty) and the other was the older road that went way up into the hills. Because I was with my mother, we took the more modern road but I wished I could've taken the other one.

L


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## Tris (Oct 30, 2008)

Fond memories from my trip all over Ireland are now rushing back... 

Dingle was great fun, but I have to say Kinsale was equally amazing. I believe it's the "foodie capital of Ireland".  I normally HATE mussels, but the HUGE bowl of buttered muscles was amazing in Kinsale. Walking from Charles Fort back into town was great too!

I say you have to go to Galway, and perhaps get yourself a really nice claddagh ring, and check out the city for at least a couple of days. Stay at a B&B a bit outside of the main city center, and leisurely walk back and forth. Galway has a lot to offer being one of the major cities.

In Dublin, the museums were grand, but I enjoyed Kilmainham gaol the most. It was eerie, but gives you a strong emotions and sense of Irish history. I, unfortunately, missed the Guinness Storehouse, but I hear it has an amazing view of the city. Unless you are a big fan of Guinness, just grab your free pint coupon and take off for the top of the building instead of taking the tour. At least ONE pint of Guinness is also a must in Ireland! It is true, Guinness does not travel well at all.  During the day I went to all of the museums, churches (St. Patricks & Christ Church), & picnic lunch in St. Stephen's Green with a nice stroll after. During day 2 in Dublin, I took a tour of Dublin Castle which was alright, and had lunch in a local pub around our small hotel by Temple Bar (and light shopping as we walked). I say if you have the time in Dublin, check out Phoenix Park and try to find a large group of deer, and perhaps look at the large Papal Cross that was constructed for then Pope John Paul II visited (just once, I think)...but all-in-all, you won't be really missing much if you don't have time to see it. Though I do suggest that you check out the farmer's market on O'Connell Street, it was great fun! 

If you want more of the old traditional rural Ireland feel, a trip out to the Aran Islands is a must! You can get authentic handmade wool sweaters there, but...phew! I couldn't afford it...but it was nice window shopping. Dun Angus fort was fun as I remember the winds were SO strong, it held me up as I tried to bend down to touch my toes. Yes, you do have to take a rather small ferry to the island, and the water is rather choppy, but if you stay outside of the boat you will be able to avoid being seasick. I took a small mini bus tour of the entire island (we were on the biggest island in the island grouping) in a matter of hours, but of course, our driver spoke and drove REALLY fast it was down right comical. 

Are you going to Northern Ireland? I LOVED Giant's Causeway! It wasn't a difficult walk down and I had fun climbing around the unique lava rock formations. Carrick-a-Rede bridge was fun too, but if you are absolutely TERRIFIED of heights...perhaps this should be a miss.  Unless you are absolutely enthralled with ruined castles, you can give Dunluce Castle a miss too. In Northern Ireland, I liked Derry/Londonderry...but you could feel the tension in the air just as we did in Belfast, but as a tourist we didn't get a lot of harassment, but since the vehicle we were traveling in was from the Republic [of Ireland], there were some shouting and rude gestures as we made our way around the city. Just don't let it get to you, and just spend a couple of days...check out the Titanic museum (if it's still there)...and maybe grab lunch/bathroom break at Belfast city hall or St. George's Market.

I LOVED Ireland, and learned a lot! I went to pubs practically every night, had some great pints and talked with various people. The music in the pubs were awesome and came home with MANY CDs (bring cash w/ you to buy CDs is a MUST). The food was great, and the people were friendly and courteous as I mangled some Irish words and got lost many times.  Oh, and bring a rain jacket or at the very least an umbrella (though a jacket was best for us as we had some strong winds that would break umbrellas). Coming from Washington state, the weather wasn't really different from my POV but I hear some people say that the weather is crazy as it is changeable throughout the day. I also highly suggest that you take those small city tours as it is a great way to get your bearings around town, and get some of the history you might have missed.

Geez, I went to so many places in Ireland as we hugged around the entire coast. There is a ton of stuff to do and see in a small island country.  My friend and I said we will definitely go back again...and again. I mean with memories of meeting people like "Monkey", impromptu music sessions at pubs, pub crawls in every city/town/village, awesome views all around, history (you cannot miss tributes to the great hunger famine & exodus of people), see art work all around (my favs were in the River Liffey and on the freeways/motorways), and getting lost during a morning jog only to find our driver (who lived in the city were in) and invite her to a cattle auction with the rest of the locals (this happened to my friend who is now TOTALLY into cows, she's lived in the big city all her life and have NEVER seen a real cow before). If you want to get some ideas or an overview of what I did in Ireland, send me your email address in a PM, and I am can share my large photobook with you. 

Tris


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## lukemallory (May 13, 2013)

Feel free to meander down Grafton Street at about 3am and witness Luke Mallory in all his glory staggering from side to side, shirtless and desperately searching for his next drink...  

What are you interests? Tris' rundown was pretty good! Though Guinness does not travel well....within Ireland..! So it's hit and miss. Where are you heading?


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## Tris (Oct 30, 2008)

lukemallory said:


> Feel free to meander down Grafton Street at about 3am and witness Luke Mallory in all his glory staggering from side to side, shirtless and desperately searching for his next drink...


Wait, I think I saw you! Ha-ha!  Just kidding, though I did notice some rather "interesting" people in Temple Bar late at night...not to mention many people "singing" kareoke. 

Tris


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## Ann in Arlington (Oct 27, 2008)

I think there needs to be a Republic of Ireland KBoards meet up.


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## Tris (Oct 30, 2008)

Oh, I forgot to add the Book of Kells.  As a book lover it was interesting, I mean many people died becase of this book, and it is the oldest book in existance and intact.  The line was CRAZY!  To tell you the truth (if we didn't have tickets ahead of time) I probably wouldn't have seen it.  I enjoyed a stroll of Trinity College (Dublin), and their old library.

I also enjoyed the Cliffs of Moher, but it got so crowded very quickly.  The view was amazing, and I enjoyed a nice lunch there...but what I enjoyed was actually going outside of the boundaries of the park.  Yes, I know you weren't allowed too and it was a bit dangerous without built in barriers (you see a nice memorial to those who have fallen off of the cliff as you go over the barricade), but I couldn't help myself as I saw many people make their way over.  Yes, I did slip once (gave me a good scare for a moment as I stopped right on the edge), but I got some views and camera shots...stupid I know...  

I know people are going to probably yell at me for this, but I say skip the Rock of Chasel in Co. Tipperary.  It had a nice view and some cool bits of historical info, but it was just and "alright" for me.  Maybe because it was under long term renovation so most of it was covered in scaffolding, but I enjoyed staring out to the fields instead inward.

Some would yell at me again, when I say skip the "blarney stone" in Cork.  I did, and I don't feel bad the in the slightest.  Everyone who went tell me that they just went to go kiss a rock at an odd angle and paid too much for the opprotunity too.  Not to mention some of the horror stories I hear about the rock covered in salvia just did not encourage me to go.

One place I did, unfortunately miss, due to time/work is Hill of Tara (Co. Wexford), the mountains in Wicklow, and Newgrange.  Ah, there is always next time, right? 

Tris


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## The Hooded Claw (Oct 12, 2009)

I haven't yet been to Ireland, but on my short list when I go are Newgrange and The Giant's Causeway. I'd want to visit a castle or two, but don't know enough to recommend or even name any other than the standard Blarney Castle.


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## Betsy the Quilter (Oct 27, 2008)

Ann in Arlington said:


> I think there needs to be a Republic of Ireland KBoards meet up.





lukemallory said:


> Feel free to meander down Grafton Street at about 3am and witness Luke Mallory in all his glory staggering from side to side, shirtless and desperately searching for his next drink...


Sounds like Grafton Street at 3am is the place for the Meet-up. 



Ann in Arlington said:


> You could go see my family's ancestral home in The Neale, in County Mayo.  (it's a mostly caved in thatch cottage by now, if it's even still standing.  )


Give me an address or GPS coordinates...I'll see if I can work it in. 

Keep 'em coming! Tris, I'll PM you.

Betsy


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## CatherineM (Jan 9, 2013)

I am so jealous, you female dog!


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## Harriet Schultz (Jan 3, 2012)

If you visit Galway (and you should), take a day trip by ferry to one of the Aran Islands. I think Inishmor is the closest. It's a trip back in time. I second the Book of Kells at the Trinity College Library in Dublin. If you were a fan of the TV series The Tudors, Kilruddery House in Wicklow, just south of Dublin, will look familiar since many scenes were filmed there.


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## Betsy the Quilter (Oct 27, 2008)

CatherineM said:


> I am so jealous


Sorry! 

Harriet and Tris,

the Book of Kells sounds like something hubby and I would both love to see, but lines, ugh! Will have to think about that...

The Aran Islands also sound like our kind of thing, adding it to the list, along with everything else suggested here so that I can start figuring what we MUST see and what we'll squeeze in...

Giant's Causeway sounds intriguing, Claw!

Betsy


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## Lindsay Harrison (May 17, 2013)

Old St. Kevin's Church in County Wicklow. A beautiful scenic drive and many pleasant surprises at the church. While you're out that way stop off at Derrybawn. The bridge there was built centuries ago (c. 1700) and is still in excellent condition, and there's an interesting tourist trap store that has great clothes and silver jewellery.
Galway. Incredible mountains and an amazing lake behind them, but ignore the sign on the highway that says you can stay overnight (B&B) in an old castle. It's been closed for years but you don't find that out until you've driven miles to find it.
Dublin city. If you can find it, watch the movie 'Once' before you go. Look for the statue of Molly Malone while you're there.
If you like 'off the beaten track' (you can't get lost in Southern Ireland, it's a small place) head out through Naas and aim for County Meath. The roads are narrow and have handmade dry stone walls on either side. Really interesting.
Also, Southern Irish are the best drivers in the world. They actually indicate before turning and changing lanes, and they let you in if you're merging. Pity about the coffee, though. It tastes like burned peanuts, except at McCafe. How odd that McDonalds would have the best coffee.


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## Sandpiper (Oct 28, 2008)

I saw a double rainbow while in Ireland.  And maybe it was over the cottage used in the movie The Quiet Man.  Maybe.  I did see both -- but at the same time?  It was so many years ago I'm not sure -- mid to late '70s.


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## Betsy the Quilter (Oct 27, 2008)

Sandpiper said:


> I saw a double rainbow while in Ireland. And maybe it was over the cottage used in the movie The Quiet Man. Maybe. I did see both -- but at the same time? It was so many years ago I'm not sure -- mid to late '70s.


Oooh, love the movie The Quiet Man...though it has a scene or two that make me cringe now. May have to watch that...

Betsy


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## Ann in Arlington (Oct 27, 2008)

Betsy the Quilter said:


> Oooh, love the movie The Quiet Man...though it has a scene or two that make me cringe now. May have to watch that...
> 
> Betsy


http://www.quietman-cong.com/cong-museum/

And my grandfather's home is up the road toward Balinrobe. It's been years since I was there so have no clue how to direct you. It was a 3 room thatched cottage where 6 or 7 of them were raised. The last of my great aunts died probably 30 or more years ago. But the area around is of some historical interest: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neale,_County_Mayo

I do have cousins still nearby, called Maye (Tommy and Imelda) in Lackaun. They keep sheep and actually still own the old family property but it was in disrepair due to lack of funds last time I was there. When we were there in the mid 80's it was still standing -- my aunt had died not too long before, but when we were there again in the mid 90's the thatch had fallen in.  It was sad.


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## Betsy the Quilter (Oct 27, 2008)

When we went to Croatia in 1998, we visited the village where my grandfather was born.  The whole village was in ruins, no one lived there...but we saw the house where he was born.

Betsy


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## lukemallory (May 13, 2013)

Actually that probably was me in Temple Bar 

You should meander out to Dun Laoghaire and walk the pier too. It's steeped in history but few people (local Irish) seem to know about it.










http://www.dun-laoghaire.com/cgi-bin/forum/YaBB.pl?action=print;num=1309092121


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## Andre Jute (Dec 18, 2010)

There are some places you need to give a miss, because they are grossly commercialized. Killarney is one. If you're doing the Ring, drive through Killarney and stay at Kenmore or Bantry. Roz hated Killarney the last time we stayed there to show it to an aged aunt. There was nowhere to escape Danny Boy blaring out at you.

I take it you've already discovered the big secret of travelling in Ireland, which is not to stay in hotels but in the government approved guest-houses that display the clover symbol. They're cheaper but the main point is that they're friendlier, and a fount of local knowledge. There's a book of all these places published by the tourist authority that you can buy and use for planning, because in the high season you need to book, but for the rest of the year you can just turn up, and if the first one you choose doesn't have a vacancy, she'll usually call around her mates and find you a place to stay.

Galway (where you should go to the Burren), Dingle, Cliffs of Moher, Giant's Causeway, all good suggestions. West Cork is beautiful, but so is all of Ireland. Since you're into books, you may wish to visit Blarney Castle and kiss the stone, like I'm doing:









If you actually want to know about what shaped the Irish consciousness, read my colleague Tim Pat Coogan's two biographies of Michael Collins and Eamonn de Valera; he's the best guide through a complicated situation.​


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## jkkelley (Jul 3, 2013)

What my wife and I learned about Ireland was that the B&B network (you buy voucher books and receive a book of B&Bs that accept them) is great fun. A rental with automatic transmission is a must. Armed with those things, you are in a position to travel as we did:

1) After breakfast (which makes lunch unnecessary, which is just as well given the limited number of lunch eateries), decide where you want to end up, use the phone cards you bought to call ahead and reserve your next B&B at or near your destination. We slipped our vouchers to the B&B hostess after breakfast, so that she didn't have to perform the awkwardness of asking for them. B&B ladies have personality, from prim but polite to relaxed to grandmotherly to spiritual to thoughtful, often a mix of the above. They are part of the fun.

2) Now you have until your expected arrival time to find your way to your next rest. If there's something in that area, go hunting for it, ideally with one of you as full-time navigator with a very detailed map book. But if you can't think of something, or your path is blocked (it's closed, there's a flood, too many sheep blockades, the weather is not right for a long hike), then just wander in the right general direction and keep your eyes open for what Ireland might show you.

We did that for most of three weeks. By the end, my wife literally did not want to go home.

This may sound kind of woo-woo, but the more we trusted in Ireland and its people, the more help materialized for us out of nowhere, the more tips and hints we got, the more interesting things we stumbled across, and the better time we had. If there was some delay or other issue, we learned not to stress; pressuring anyone or anything in Ireland is sure to fail. Flow with things, explore, say howdy to folks. If you aren't complaining about the rain, you will surprise the Irish, who actually kept apologizing to us for it. Ireland is a very safe place to travel (especially if you drive very defensively...).

I agree with avoiding a lot of the very touristy non-scenic stuff: Killarney, Blarney Castle and such. Ireland has so many old passage tombs, stone circles, castles in repair and ruin alike, and rugged coastlines that you can't fail to find natural beauty and antiquity. Don't expect a lot of interpretive center stuff. Evidently the Irish view is that interpretive centers ruin things. Most antiquities will have, at most, an informational plaque and a Fógra (warning). We always read the Fógra, even though it always said the same thing in English and Irish: basically that this was a site under protection of the government, that we were asked to assist in preserving it, and that the penalties for doing counter to that were serious. We made a habit of picking up the litter everywhere we went, and I can't help but feel that something noticed. There is some feeling greatly ancient in Ireland, and I'm not normally hypersensitive to such things. I liked to think we were not offending that, and if there's anything to it, to go by the success of our trip we must have done all right.

Avoid most other tourists. Many will embarrass or annoy you. By the time you have a good feel for how to help them, you'll find they mostly ignore your suggestions anyway, so I'd just let them figure it out for themselves.

Golden secret to pub etiquette: most self-respecting Irish pubs seem to have a pub mascot, a completely voluntary unofficial position. His (always male) role is to sit near the door, be drunk but not sloppy or obnoxious or faceplanting drunk, and to smile and greet everyone who comes in. This tends to startle North Americans at first, I think, which is too bad, because what they don't know is that most of the social opportunities in the pub are quietly (even unconsciously) recording your reaction to the pub mascot. If you recoil from him as some kind of weirdo, I think they size you up as distant and unapproachable for a longer time. The best approach is to expect him, smile back, say howdy, and give him the time of day before continuing in. This reaction also is noted, and hints to people that you are friendly and interested in _craic_ (banter).

The other two rules: when you order a pint, go away and come back in a few. It has to settle. To hand you an unsettled, un-topped-up pint would be one step short of asking you to leave--an insult, like if a restaurant brought your 'medium rare' hamburger blackened to charcoal. And you must, must, must buy your round in turn. If there are two of you and two Irish, one of whom buys a round, you can't leave until you buy one. If both of them do, both of you must. Of course, when they do, unless they're making a suggestion for you, whatever you were having before, you're having another--not something pricier. You probably would not miss on that one, but it's amazing how many do. It is noted, and not in an approving manner.

Enjoy. It was one of the greatest vacations we ever had, and the only planned parts were arrival, departure, vehicle and a hotel for a couple of nights in Dublin. The rest was taken as it came, and when left up to Ireland to choose, the country was itself a great tour guide. In spite of all the signs turned the wrong way, and me somehow managing to find a way to turn left rather than right at the North Atlantic (normally not the sort of obstacle where that's possible.)


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## Ann in Arlington (Oct 27, 2008)

jkkelley said:


> A rental with automatic transmission is a must.


Nah. If you're used to driving a stick, you'll be fine with a stick in Ireland. In fact, we found it helps since the shifter is on your 'wrong' side and that's a constant reminder that you're actually driving on the 'wrong' side.  If you're a generally pretty good and fairly relaxed driver, you get used to it pretty quick.

Overall, the Irish are like people anywhere -- some are friendly, some are surly, but for the most part, if you treat them with respect, they'll do the same to you. Just treat 'em like real human beings rather than some exotic mythical species and you'll be fine.  And if you're not sure about some specific local custom or something, just ask. . . there will surely be someone willing to explain it all!

I'd also say that, just because a place tends to have a lot of tourists, doesn't mean it should be avoided. There's usually a good reason why it's well known and it's probably worth seeing. But there are also lots of just 'along the way' type things that is would be wise not to just dash by on your way to check something else off your 'to see' list.


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## Betsy the Quilter (Oct 27, 2008)

Thanks for all the good suggestions, folks!  Keep 'em coming!

Jkkelley--thanks for your thoughts!  Automatic transmissions are anathema to hubby, so we'll happily take a stick. (He's frustrated that it is SO difficult--practically impossible--to get a standard transmission from rental car companies in the US.  He's always delighted to rent a car overseas.)  And he's driven many, many times in England, Scotland and Wales and is pretty used to it by now. In fact, he loves driving there--drivers generally are much better than here.

At this point in our travels, we don't try to see everything...one can't anyway, so we're reading everything with interest and trying to prioritize what we consider must see, and then leave the rest for serendipity to guide us.  We tend to be short-attention span tourists anyway--"ooh, what's that?"   We do think we want to see the Book of Kells, though long lines are also anathema. *shudder*  So it might depend on how long the lines are.  Still making lists and reading up on things--we spent the afternoon yesterday at B&N with a table full of travel guides.  We're both reading all the suggestions here with interest and adding to our list....

JKK, we also like the road less traveled.  "Flow with things, explore, say howdy to folks" is how we travel everywhere...the best travel advice I know!    Oh, and picking up litter--we do that here, too.  We always try to leave any place we visit a little better than we found it.  (I even pick up litter when I bird, which apparently is unusual, given the looks and comments I've gotten.  I guess I'm not supposed to see anything but the birds.  )

The blarney stone has little interest to me, sorry, Andre...though I'm not sure the connection with books?

I don't really understand the vouchers?  Someone else we know mentioned them. Where do you get the vouchers?  Can't you just use euros? Or your credit card?

So many decisions at this point...I'm going to have to dive in soon.  We have decided we might need to make the trip longer!  

Betsy


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## Leslie (Apr 7, 2008)

Here's a link to some info on B&B vouchers:

http://www.irishtourism.com/independent-vacations-of-ireland/bed-and-breakfast-vouchers-ireland/2052

On the very first post I mentioned the Dingle Peninsula and the town of Dingle. Right now I am reading Roger Ebert's memoir and he mentions going to Dingle where David Lean was filming _Ryan's Daughter_. I knew there was a famous movie filmed there but I couldn't think of the name--thanks to Roger for jogging my memory.

You can watch it on your Fire for $2.99 from Amazon.

L


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## Ann in Arlington (Oct 27, 2008)

Here's some info I found with the Google about B&B vouchers: http://www.irishtourism.com/independent-vacations-of-ireland/bed-and-breakfast-vouchers-ireland/2052. Sounds like it's a way to budget ahead for accommodations without being locked in to any particular place. Good only at "approved" B&B's, but that's probably where you'd want to stay mostly anyway. 

_(I see Leslie just beat me to it.  )_


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## Leslie (Apr 7, 2008)

When my husband and I went to England, we had one a voucher book for a "plan as you go" trip. It was fun and we met some very interesting people at the places we stayed. Driving around Ireland in 2004, I saw the green clover signs for the B&B's all over the place. My mother and I were based at a nice hotel in Limerick so I don't have first hand knowledge but I thought then that if I went back I'd go the voucher/B&B route.

I was hoping to get to Ireland this summer (there's a nursing conference in Cork at the end of July I wanted to attend) but the airfare was high and my wallet is still recovering from the wedding. 

Driving in Ireland is easy, even if you are on the wrong side of the road. Most of the roads in the country were built after WWII so they are new (wide) and well maintained. There isn't nearly as much traffic as there is in England and people don't drive at breakneck speeds.

L


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## Betsy the Quilter (Oct 27, 2008)

Ann in Arlington said:


> Here's some info I found with the Google about B&B vouchers: http://www.irishtourism.com/independent-vacations-of-ireland/bed-and-breakfast-vouchers-ireland/2052. Sounds like it's a way to budget ahead for accommodations without being locked in to any particular place. Good only at "approved" B&B's, but that's probably where you'd want to stay mostly anyway.
> 
> _(I see Leslie just beat me to it.  )_


Yeah, after I posted, I Googled and found that site, too. Great minds think alike.  I was hoping someone would suggest a reason, from experience, for doing that instead of just using cash/credit cards. Another friend traveled to Ireland this year and he just used his credit card or cash...and he and his son didn't make arrangements in advance.

Betsy


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## Betsy the Quilter (Oct 27, 2008)

Leslie said:


> Here's a link to some info on B&B vouchers:
> 
> http://www.irishtourism.com/independent-vacations-of-ireland/bed-and-breakfast-vouchers-ireland/2052
> 
> On the very first post I mentioned the Dingle Peninsula and the town of Dingle. Right now I am reading Roger Ebert's memoir and he mentions going to Dingle where David Lean was filming _Ryan's Daughter_. I knew there was a famous movie filmed there but I couldn't think of the name--thanks to Roger for jogging my memory.


Yes, I've been reading up on Dingle and read about _Ryan's Daughter_, been meaning to post here about it.

Betsy


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## Betsy the Quilter (Oct 27, 2008)

jljarvis said:


> I spent a little over a week in Dublin two summers ago.
> 
> Highlights for me were:
> Trinity College/Book of Kells
> ...


Thanks! Adding the places and the movies to my lists! The Gaol intrigues me....

Betsy


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## Leslie (Apr 7, 2008)

Betsy the Quilter said:


> Yes, I've been reading up on Dingle and read about _Ryan's Daughter_, been meaning to post here about it.
> 
> Betsy


Actually, _Ryan's Daughter_ doesn't get very good reviews but I think it might be interesting for the scenery.

L


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## Ann in Arlington (Oct 27, 2008)

Betsy the Quilter said:


> Yeah, after I posted, I Googled and found that site, too. Great minds think alike.  I was hoping someone would suggest a reason, from experience, for doing that instead of just using cash/credit cards. Another friend traveled to Ireland this year and he just used his credit card or cash...and he and his son didn't make arrangements in advance.
> 
> Betsy


As I recall -- mind you this was at least 20 years ago -- B&B's are pretty thick on the ground. And if you get to a place and decide you're done driving for the night, there's almost certainly some place in town you can ask about accommodations -- a local pub if not a specific 'tourism and lodging' office. And there are hotels, too, in larger towns. 

I guess it comes down to, how comfortable are you with the possibility that you might end up some where with no particular place to stay and have to take what you can get.  For some that's part of the adventure; for some it would ruin the whole trip.


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## Leslie (Apr 7, 2008)

I think when you buy the vouchers you have a guaranteed price and, depending on what type of vouchers you buy, a certain standard of accommodation. When we did it in England, the program was called "Manors and Mansions" and every place that was listed had to provide: 1) a room with a private bath; 2) full breakfast; and 3) an option to have dinner at the house (for an extra fee) or the owners would suggest local restaurants and offer to make a reservation (if one was needed). The owners would also (if we asked) call ahead to the next place to stay, found out if a room was available and make arrangements for us for the next night.

Remember, this was almost 20 years ago and we didn't have cellphones so having someone do the calling up and making arrangements was very helpful. This might be different nowadays.

L


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## jkkelley (Jul 3, 2013)

We also liked Dingle very much. One of the few places where I had practical use for my halting Irish, though we could have hit more Gaelteachts and didn't. Most of our B&B ladies and their husbands out west spoke it conversationally. You could have knocked them over with the Mariners' World Series chances when I started speaking it (or trying).



Leslie said:


> Driving in Ireland is easy, even if you are on the wrong side of the road. Most of the roads in the country were built after WWII so they are new (wide) and well maintained. There isn't nearly as much traffic as there is in England and people don't drive at breakneck speeds.


Our experience of Irish driving was very different than this and the general descriptions preceding. Not being used to right-hand drive, we came very close several times to turning into the wrong lane, and had to maintain constant awareness to avoid this very dangerous error (especially for pedestrians, who expect one to go here, but not there, etc.). This is the first time I've heard people endorse stick driving when having to switch it to the other hand--I am a stick driving man at home all the way, but only my right hand has the muscle memory even to know that it's supposed to be doing that. It is true that you can't get going too fast on many Irish roads, but most I saw were basically well-paved trenches big enough for two lanes if some big truck didn't come blowing by making you hug the other side and pray. And you would be hugging it, because shoulders were rare to nonexistent. Watching for cyclists, sheep and tractors is very important. They are also mostly not lighted at night, so if you go in winter when it gets dark sooner, you can make things really interesting.

We got the vouchers through a travel agent, an Ulsterwoman who suggest that as a great way to tour the country. Like you, Leslie (well met), we found that if we had trouble, our hostess would typically phone ahead for us (especially if she had a friend up that way in the B&B business). Our trip was in 2002. What I wonder now is: how has the radical change in the Republic's economy impacted the B&B scene? All my information is eleven years old. I think my favorite was the B&B lady who sternly rebuked my wife for laughing at something stupid I'd done: "Don't be laughing at your husband, now."

Most of the best experiences we had, we stumbled upon. Sometimes stumbled through. There was the one stone circle, unloved and barely tolerated by its landowner, with rotting turnips and dead rats all around it. There was another that was clearly loved and cared for, felt special. The place just serves up the unexpected. Every day we had the feeling that something cool was likely to happen.


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## jkkelley (Jul 3, 2013)

Ann in Arlington said:


> I guess it comes down to, how comfortable are you with the possibility that you might end up some where with no particular place to stay and have to take what you can get.  For some that's part of the adventure; for some it would ruin the whole trip.


Season was a factor for us. We went in November, when most B&Bs haven't gone into their winter break but most of the tourists are gone. Our logic was that even in summer, it rains plenty there, so might as well get the crowd avoidance benefit.

The worry you describe was one I also had beforehand, but it was easy to resolve. Let's say you were departing Clare and wanted to stay in Mayo, one county north. Before leaving, you'd glance at a map for towns in the general area where you wanted to end your day, and look in the B&B book for accommodations there. You'd call those that looked promising and had what you wanted, and when you found one with vacancies, you'd ask what time they would prefer you to show up. Typically they liked to see you by six, since they didn't ask for a deposit and were reserving a room on your word. Issue resolved in fifteen minutes of pre-departure time, and now you have all day to get seventy miles, at liberty to dawdle and explore and such. When we went, there were so very many B&Bs that even very small towns had one or two, and towns of modest size had a dozen. We were never restricted in the slightest by worry about accommodations, thanks to this little bit of planning ahead. In summer, it might be tighter, with more tourists about.


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## Betsy the Quilter (Oct 27, 2008)

jkkelley said:


> Our experience of Irish driving was very different than this and the general descriptions preceding. Not being used to right-hand drive, we came very close several times to turning into the wrong lane, and had to maintain constant awareness to avoid this very dangerous error (especially for pedestrians, who expect one to go here, but not there, etc.). This is the first time I've heard people endorse stick driving when having to switch it to the other hand--I am a stick driving man at home all the way, but only my right hand has the muscle memory even to know that it's supposed to be doing that. It is true that you can't get going too fast on many Irish roads, but most I saw were basically well-paved trenches big enough for two lanes if some big truck didn't come blowing by making you hug the other side and pray. And you would be hugging it, because shoulders were rare to nonexistent. Watching for cyclists, sheep and tractors is very important. They are also mostly not lighted at night, so if you go in winter when it gets dark sooner, you can make things really interesting.


Everyone's different... For us, we've driven on the left side enough that I hardly ever have to remind the hubster to "stay left" when turning, though I do it automatically whenever we turn.* That, and navigation, are my job. His is driving. And using his left hand to shift, even though he's very strongly right-handed, never was a problem for him, which kinda surprises me, to tell the truth. Heavy traffic is the only time it was ever an issue, when a gazillion things are happing at once, but since we rarely did that (we avoid having a car in cities wherever possible), it didn't happen much.

The roads sound like what we discovered out in Cornwall and on the Isle of Mull in western Scotland. Very tiny roads with an occasional pull out. I was just reading today in the library that Ireland has the second highest driving fatality rate in Europe, after Greece.  Apparently they've really cracked down on speeders.



> We got the vouchers through a travel agent, an Ulsterwoman who suggest that as a great way to tour the country. Like you, Leslie (well met), we found that if we had trouble, our hostess would typically phone ahead for us (especially if she had a friend up that way in the B&B business).


Friends who traveled to Ireland a couple years or so ago (and used vouchers) had the same experience you did. And planned their trip much the same way. Each morning, they would decide where they were going to try to get to that day and check with the hostess.

And we had two other friends who traveled this year and didn't use vouchers but also didn't make any recommendations ahead of time.



jkkelley said:


> Every day we had the feeling that something cool was likely to happen.


I think people who travel with this attitude find cool things tend to happen. 

We came home from the library with 7 books on Ireland (checked out) and five more from the book sale.


Betsy

*we encounter so few roundabouts here in the US, sometimes I have to remind him to turn right when we approach a roundabout here....


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## Leslie (Apr 7, 2008)

Re: driving--most times, I am with my husband and he does 90% of the driving, but in Ireland I was traveling with my mom. She certainly wasn't going to drive anywhere so I ended up behind the wheel. I expected to be a wreck but it was actually fine. I thought the roads were amazingly good--I asked at the hotel and that's where I got the info the most roads were built in the last 50-60 years. Prior to WWII there were very few cars, very few paved roads--it was an extremely rural country with dirt roads and wagons.

We were there in 2004 and it was at the height of the economic boom and they were building houses everywhere. I wonder what it will look like now.

When are you traveling, Betsy?

L


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## Leslie (Apr 7, 2008)

jljarvis said:


> This is why I don't put much stock in reviews. It's a very good film-although, by the end of the film, the musical theme will be etched in your ear.


I like reading reviews but I also like reading lots of them to come up with my own opinion. My sense of _Ryan's Daughter_ is that people appreciate it much more now than they did when it came out. Although at 3+ hours, I am not sure I'd make it through the whole thing!

L


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## Betsy the Quilter (Oct 27, 2008)

Leslie said:


> When are you traveling, Betsy?


It won't be until later in the year, after the tourist season....hopefully won't be very busy.

Betsy


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## William L.K. (Aug 5, 2010)

OK..I am not Irish but my wife and family are. We went there a few years back and I didn't want to go at all. I was kicking and screaming the whole way there. Well, let me say this, after being there for just a day I fell in love with Ireland. Without question, it is the most beautiful scenery I have ever stood witness to. (In fact, that's me standing in Ireland in my profile pic.) 

If I had to pick one thing to not miss, that would have to be The Cliffs of Moher. Simply breathtaking!!!

Have a great time! I'm jealous, I would love to go back and see it all again.


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## Betsy the Quilter (Oct 27, 2008)

Leslie said:


> I thought the roads were amazingly good--I asked at the hotel and that's where I got the info the most roads were built in the last 50-60 years. Prior to WWII there were very few cars, very few paved roads--it was an extremely rural country with dirt roads and wagons.


Apparently there was another big push after EU money became available in the 80s and 90s. From Wikipedia:


> The National Development Plan (1989-1993) set out a programme of road improvements costed at €1,257 million (1989 prices): it "included thirty-four major improvement projects involving the provision of dual carriageway or motorway on 290 kilometres of national primary routes"; another 290 kilometers were to be upgraded to wide single carriageway standard (7.3 metre carriageway plus two 3 metre hard shoulders). A further €3,316 million (1994 prices) was spent on national primary routes between 1994 and 1999. Four key strategic corridors were identified for major improvements. These programmes meant that by the end of 1993, 35% of the national road network was "adequate or improved", 53% (with improvements to another 11% of the network underway) by the end of 1999.[7]


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## lukemallory (May 13, 2013)

This has been an interesting read


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## Betsy the Quilter (Oct 27, 2008)

William L.K. said:


> OK..I am not Irish but my wife and family are. We went there a few years back and I didn't want to go at all. I was kicking and screaming the whole way there. Well, let me say this, after being there for just a day I fell in love with Ireland. Without question, it is the most beautiful scenery I have ever stood witness to. (In fact, that's me standing in Ireland in my profile pic.)
> 
> If I had to pick one thing to not miss, that would have to be The Cliffs of Moher. Simply breathtaking!!!
> 
> Have a great time! I'm jealous, I would love to go back and see it all again.


Thanks, William! Adding that to my list.... Great profile pic!

Betsy


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## N. Gemini Sasson (Jul 5, 2010)

If you go north at all, don't miss the Giant's Causeway: http://www.discovernorthernireland.com/causeway/. Been awhile since I was there, but it's very accessible and a view of the coast unlike any other. Not too far away are BushMills Distillery, Dunluce Castle (falling slowly into the sea) and if you like birdwatching, there's Rathlin Island, where Robert the Bruce hid out for a winter.

My favorite memory from my time in the area was a picnic on the dunes near Portrush. The other was taking a boat ride at sunset around one of the lakes near Enniskillen in Fermanagh and seeing the swans and other birds. Very peaceful.

Have fun! There's so much to choose from. I'd love to go back, but silly things like fences and refrigerators and college tuition for two kids keep siphoning off the extra cash.


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## Leslie (Apr 7, 2008)

Hi Betsy...thought this might be of interest:

http://travel.nytimes.com/2013/07/07/travel/following-game-of-thrones-to-belfast-and-beyond.html

L


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## Betsy the Quilter (Oct 27, 2008)

Thanks, Leslie!  The non-GOT stuff woven in was the most interesting to us!

Betsy


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